14/12/07

Dec 14 - Musical Malawi

December 14

One of the beautiful aspects of Africa, in keeping with its image throughout the world, is its musicality. Song seems to be a significant part of life for many here – not all that surprising given the lack of television, cinema and even electricity for so many. Today that was shown to us in two different forms, both equally as moving.

In the paediatric department, each time an international doctor or nurse who has been here for any significant length of time is departing, a makeshift farewell ceremony is put together on the Friday. Today was Sarah and Marie’s turn, two nurses who have been here for the last six months as part of a Birmingham nursing exchange with Malawi. The head sister of special care as Master of Ceremonies took us through the hour or so as per usual, much to the bemusement of all. Now it would be a little out of keeping in the western world for this sort of thing to happen, but here the proceedings begin with every single nurse on for that day joining in an unaccompanied song for the departing visitors… something they throw themselves into with no consideration of embarrassment. This is then followed by the head sister doing her usual hilarious and out of key solo number, then the addition this time of Christina – one of our Moyo nurses who is a very good singer, complete with her own CD recordings – coming up for a second solo. Some in Chichewa and some in English, all the songs are a typically rhythmic, soulful and religion-slanted affair. The ceremony of sorts is then topped off with more group song and present giving before coffee and cake… the latter which the nurses throw themselves into with just as much gusto (the concept of providing free food at any party, teaching or even meeting within a government or company setting is a given, and is taken up rather ravenously by most).

Heth on the other hand was required to be the speaking guest of honour out at Ndirande (a township in the north of Blantyre) for the Christmas meeting of all the palliative care home visiting volunteers, a rather large gathering made up entirely of Africans. Here, with her words being translated into Chichewa as she spoke, she was greeted with chorus-like responses from the masses with quintessential Chichewan ‘oohs’, ‘aahs’ and ‘eeees’ at every pause, applause after every second line and an extremely welcoming audience. The crowd also greeted her with a welcoming song before she began her speech, a harmonious African tune from the entire crowd that had Heth in a ‘this is why I came to Africa’ moment. As I say time and time again in my travel dairies throughout the world, you can’t buy that sort of experience.